Alloy Wheel Restoration
NOTE: THE INFORMATION CONTAINED
IN THIS WEBSITE IS FOR REFERENCE PURPOSES ONLY. SAM'S FOX THUNDERCATS MAKES NO
GUARANTEE AS TO ITS ACCURACY, NOR DO WE ACCEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE
THAT MAY OCCUR TO YOU OR YOUR VEHICLE FROM USING THIS INFORMATION. AS WITH ANY
TIME YOU ARE WORKING WITH YOUR CAR JACKED UP BE SURE IT IS SITTING SECURELY ON
JACKSTANDS AND THAT THE WHEELS ARE BLOCKED TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM ROLLING
Wheels can make a big difference in the looks of
a car. Alloy wheels provide the best look for the money, but unfortunately alloy
wheels tend to deteriorate with age. Aluminum gets pitted, clearcoat peels off,
and before you know it your prize wheels start to look like hell. Most towns
have a shop that can refinish wheels, but they are usually expensive, sometime
charging over $100 per wheel. The good news is that with most wheels you can do
the work yourself and save big $$ while creating your own custom look. In this
article you will see how I transformed a set of very ratty 10-hole wheels into a
set of like-new beauties. This procedure will work just as well for the 14"
8-holes, 15" turbines and 16" Turbo Coupe wheels. Actually, it will work with
virtually any alloy wheel with a relatively flat face. Follow along as we
transform
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THIS: |
INTO THIS: |
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WARNING: THIS PROCEDURE INVOLVES JACKING THE REAR OF YOUR VEHICLE UP AND RUNNING THE ENGINE. THIS IS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS AND DOING IT INCORRECTLY OR CARELESSLY COULD RESULT IN VEHICLE DAMAGE AND/OR INJURY OR DEATH. WHENEVER YOU JACK YOUR VEHICLE UP ALWAYS SUPPORT IT WITH JACK STANDS BEFORE WORKING AROUND OUR UNDER THE VEHICLE. NEVER GET UNDER A VEHICLE SUPPORTED ONLY BY A JACK!!!
IF YOUR VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH A TRACTION-LOK (LIMITED SLIP) DIFFERENTIAL YOU MUST ENSURE THAT BOTH REAR WHEELS ARE JACKED UP BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE. IF YOU ARE UNSURE JACK BOTH UP ANYWAY! FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN THE VEHICLE MOVING OFF THE JACKSTANDS, CAUSING VEHICLE DAMAGE OR PERSONAL INJURY. SAM'S FOX THUNDERCATS ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE OR INJURY CAUSED BY ATTEMPTING THIS PROCEDURE.
| The first step is to clean any loose dirt, grime, or clearcoat from the wheel. I used a soft-bristle wire brush and a bottle of Spray-Nine. After ridding the wheel of excess nasties rinse it thoroughly with water and allow it to dry completely. | ![]() |
| Next, spray the entire front surface of the wheel with the color of your choice. This color will be what the non-flat surfaces (such as the holes in this wheel, or between the spokes in a turbine) will end up as. I chose black; you can paint 'em any color you like to match your car. Remember, though, that this is also the area where brake dust will gather, so dark colors are best. Use a flat textured paint so the clearcoat will stick later on. | ![]() |
| Now jack the rear of your car up and remove the right rear wheel (the wheel you're working on should be bolted to the right rear while working). Always, ALWAYS use jackstands when working under your car and be sure to block the front wheels to prevent the car from rolling off the jack! If your car has a limited slip (traction lok, posi track, etc) rear end jack both sides up. Cars with this type of rear end include Turbo Coupes, XR7's, Sports, and some LX's among others. If you're not 100% sure what your car has jack both rear wheels up to be safe. | ![]() |
| Now bolt the rim you're restoring to the car. DO NOT START THE CAR YET. | ![]() |
| With the wheel bolted to the car use an electric drill and a scotchbrite pad to remove the paint you had applied earlier. The trick here is to only remove it from the flat surfaces - leave the paint in the nooks and crannies of the wheel. Take it right down to bare metal. | ![]() ![]() |
| After removing the paint, corrosion, clearcoat and other crud you should end up with a wheel that looks something like the photo at right. The wheel will be shiny but full of swirl marks from the scotchbrite pad. The next steps will remove those marks. | ![]() |
| Now for the dangerous part. If, and only if, you are positive that the car is secure on the jack stands and cannot move, and you're positive that there is nothing that can get caught up in a spinning wheel or driveline part, start the car. Shift the transmission into reverse and let the car idle while in reverse. Now, holding firmly to the drill, press the scotchbrite pad against the flat surface of the spinning wheel. The drill should be spinning clockwise while the wheel spins counter-clockwise. Move the drill back & forth from the center out and back again in slow, steady motions. Hang on to the drill tight - it may try to kick out on you. Continue the back & forth motions for a few minutes. Shut the car off and look at your wheel. If there are still excessive swirlies start it again and continue with this step. You will still have some swirlies left after this step - that's where the next step comes in. | ![]() |
| Now, with the car still running, hold a piece of 150-grit sandpaper to the wheel and move it back & forth from the center out as you did with the drill. YOU MUST USE A SANDING BLOCK TO HOLD THE SANDPAPER TO THE WHEEL. TRYING TO HOLD IT THERE WITH YOUR HANDS WILL ALMOST CERTAINLY RESULT IN BROKEN FINGERS! Continue this sanding motion for a bit - you will see the wheel take on a different appearance. After you're sure you've gotten the whole flat surface of the wheel done put a piece of 320-grit sandpaper on the block and repeat. This will smooth out the sanding marks left behind by the 150-grit. | ![]() |
| Shut the car off. Your wheel should look like the pic on the right - a satin finish with painted nooks & crannies. Remove the wheel from the car and wash it thoroughly to remove dust left behind by all of the sanding and scuffing. Set the wheel on the ground so that your newly prepared surface is horizontal and apply a layer of clearcoat (be sure to get the clearcoat into the painted nooks and crannies as well). After this layer firms up a bit, apply another layer. Continue doing this until you're satisfied that the entire outer surface of the wheel is coated with clearcoat. You're finished! Allow clearcoat to dry thoroughly before mounting tires. | ![]() |
| Repeat the procedure with each of your other wheels. Put some nice tires on 'em and go show off! | |